It’s been a year of paradoxes. From Gucci’s 80 redux to Vetement’s ugly chic, from Dior’s feminist streak to Chanel’s geek game — the year was a study in opposite movements, contrasting aesthetics running parallel to each other. One saw Alessandro Michele reinterpreting the Garden of Eden, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Prabal Gurung taking a strong feminist and political stand and Alexander McQueen referencing the mythical sea goddesses. In India, it was a delightful clash of very diverse aesthetics: pair your Siddhartha Bansal skirt with a Payal Khandwala pleated top and you’ve nailed the look. The likes of Alia Bhatt (the easy chic pin-up sensation) paired her trademark airport denims with Anupama Dayal’s Pirates of Calcutta jacket and Sonam Kapoor included a Rimzim Dadu metallic sari in her Cannes closet. Maximalism, surrealism, kitsch all osmosed together giving birth to a canvas of styles. Over to the designers...
The death of the ‘trend’ :
Designer Amit Aggarwal observes that more and more core designers will be moving away from runway trends. “Whether you look at Balenciaga or Gucci — the design vocabularies across the board are becoming more and more individualistic. Adhering to no specific trend will be a major trend,” he says. One can’t help but agree with that since the word ‘trend’ in itself has become a dirty word over the years. He adds, “The Gen Next is not blindly sticking to the imagery on the runway. Some of the chicest girls today like to wear their mom’s clothes and believe in constantly evolving their own wardrobes. The minute the daughter realises that her mom has a beautiful trench or a sari, which she bought from a memorable travel, she wants to break the mould and make it her own. And why not? The garment is steeped in history and love and is much more than just a piece of clothing.”
Painterly brush strokes :
Designer Anupama Dayal says, “One trend that turns me on is painterly brushstrokes, which are randomly applied on clothes. This referencing of art is something I’m most likely to connect with. Especially with all that we went through in 2016, we need to shore up our spirits. The arts is a great source to draw from and one feels replenished. I’d like to see more abstract, innovative prints.”
Warm up to layering :
Designer Sahil Aneja says, “In the menswear space, layering will be huge, even for Mumbai even though the weather doesn’t permit it. Things are getting experimental, for example the longline T-shirts. Layering a shirt with a longer or a shorter bomber is huge and so are the asymmetrical kurtas. I see men sticking to basic tailoring. The hand-painted leather jacket, which I did should be the key piece coming year.”
Metallic mayhem continues :
Atosa store owner Azmina Rahimtoola says, “Metallics will rule in 2017. Today, people want style-oriented, asymmetrical dresses. I also see ruffles going away. The jersey fabric is back and I see it in pleated metallic skirts. In a nutshell, more shine-on, embellished pieces and jackets. Free-flowing, flowy dresses are just not going away.”
Design-driven trend will emerge :
Designer Dev of the label Dev R Nil says, “In the current situation, all I can say is that the trend will be very strongly design-driven. People will invest in pieces that are not just a fad or frivolous, rather prices that can be classic and rooted. Classic well-tailored bandhgala for men, a neutral piece that can work both as Indian and western; an alternative to suit!”
Restrained opulence :
Designer Shruti Sancheti says, “In 2017, the focus is on restrained opulence and understated luxury, however, many trends from last season will continue albeit in a different interpretation. Fabrics will be more luxe and glittery and colours will be deeper especially for Autumn/Winter like burnt orange, midnight blue, military green.”
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